Across Ceredigion

Foot travel is contemplative, all the points connecting. Driving, it's easy to miss things; they slip by. We are conscious to make the drive a road trip, to carve off slivers of experience before re-embarking.

A morning visit to the Glaslyn ospreys opens a birdwatching world, eager volunteers relating the two nesting couples' years of romantic history as we peer through telescopes and watch the newest lady blink through the webcam as she sits atop her eggs — due to hatch any day now.

Barmouth is a carnival of a town. "Ferry for Fairbourne! steam railway!" The ferryman…