Akagera

"I see something!"

Dana is standing on the back seat of the car, torso poking up through the sun roof of the rented RAV-4.

We crossed into Akagera National Park just seconds ago. The gate is still visible behind us. And sure enough, by the side of the road, there's a buffalo. A cape buffalo, we later identify on the park guide. We stop again in another fifty feet: baboons! They amble across the grass, emerging from one bush and disappearing behind another.

Akagera is an enormous piece of protected land, Rwanda's only savannah safari park. They have zebras…