We wake early in Jianshui with two missions: bicycles, and breakfast.

Breakfast is easy. Around the corner from our guesthouse, we find a man selling bao zi, steamed stuffed buns. We order several: pork, red bean, and something that tastes like rose water and almond paste. We eat them as we walk the cobbled streets.

This story is the continuation of a series that begins here.

Bicycles are more of a challenge. We have a plan (more printed satellite-image maps) to catch several historical sites along the flat distance of the river valley in a long…