South of Kibuye on the Congo-Nile Trail

Light rolls in over the hills in the morning. Clouds brighten gradually until the lake shines. Sun heats the oils in eucalyptus leaves, scenting the air.

It grows hot, then suddenly the wind blows. The hills fade from the distance as the sky approaches, opacity building from mist to white to gray. Thunder rolls. When it rains, only the closest slopes can be seen.

It is in such a haze that we leave Kibuye. One last time, we hike down the hill from the guesthouse where we've been resting for three nights.