She holds the little brown coconut in her left hand, and with her right, smacks down with a cleaver the length of her forearm. Smack, turn, smack, the coconut is open and the water flows to the ground. She scrapes out the perfect halves, then stretches a chunk of dough so thin that the full pane is translucent. The hot disc gets a spread the color of Velveeta, which melts, then pancake is placed to sizzle, spread by fingertip. The dough is covered in coconut…