Money

The air smells of pineapples on the bus. There are pineapples on the floor, beneath the back seat, two small pineapples in my seatmate's leather purse. The radio plays happy music over the speakers as we wind down the steep road.

We pass a 5,000 note forward on social cue. It gets passed hand by hand to the driver. This is normal, passing money on a bus. People are very honest in Rwanda.

After a moment, 500RWF and three receipts are handed back down the bus. The receipts say: "NAME: Umuzungu", "foreigner".